When I was a kid and first came to America with my mother
and father, they quickly discovered that the Washington area, though
provincial, had:
- Two French doctors (one
male from the South of France, one female, from the North)
- A French dentist
- Three French real estate
ladies
- Two French lawyers
- One French accountant
- One French-language book
store
- One French butcher
- Two French handyman
(though one was really Algerian)
- Several young French women
who worked as maids, housekeepers and nannies
- A French lycée
- A French music teacher who
played several instruments, none particularly well
- Two very ancient ladies of
indeterminate nationality who spoke elegant French and had a curio shop in
Georgetown.
This was above and beyond the complement of French
reporters, military men and diplomats that any capital city would harbor.
Food- and drink-wise, there was wine, of course, though
rarely in the liquor stores. These carried a red alcoholic liquid so sugary it
ran thick when poured, and the French families drinking such an abomination did
so secretly. Good wine was shipped in, or purchased from diplomats who got
their monthly allotment duty-free via the eagerly awaited diplomatic pouch. Twelve
times a year, my father would visit a friend who worked at the French consulate
and return with five or six cases of scotch, brandy, and assorted liqueurs, as
well as a dozen bottles of decent Beaujolais and Medocs.
What was not to be found anywhere was bread, and this was a
serious concern. There were rumkors that a bakery in faraway New York knew how
to make croissants, but no baguette,
batard or ficelle existed within hundreds of miles of
Washington, and the feeble attempts to make such a staple at home always
failed. There were no cheeses, either, save the noxious Velveeta which my
mother once mistook for a block of furniture wax, nor were there patés, rillettes,
escargots, saucissons, boudins, smoked
salmon, quiches, nor even the makings of a decent cassoulet.
I thought of this yesterday as I gazed at the cheese counter
of a local food store, where for admittedly outrageous prices, one can purchase
European goods once unheard of in this country. I spied a tiny wedge of Roquefort
going for $17 and possibly worth it if it was real, since true Roquefort is of
limited production and aged only in the French caves of Cobalou in
Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Even more surprising was a smidgeon of Epoisses from the
Côtes d’Or at $23. I am gratified that it took only a half century for
Americans to discover the delights of truly stinky cheese.
Even more surprising is the wealth of baguette-like breads now on sale. Little ones, big ones, ones made
of rye and whole wheat and even sourdough, which to the best of my knowledge is
still unknown in France. Add to this patisseries, the Napoléons and éclairs
and choux á la crème.
I have still to find a
pet de none, precisely translated as a nun’s fart, a very light fried
beignet that for decades has inspired guffaws from French schoolchildren. Perhaps
some things are best left in France.